The first step into the bespoke process is a conversation with the customer regarding the type of shoe needed, any issues with the feet, past experiences with shoes, and proposed purpose for the footwear. Then we talk about construction concepts, style considerations, toe expressions, materials to be utilized and any other considerations related to the customers desire for the shoes.
We begin a series of 7 measurements of each foot individually, along with weight bearing prints and elongation outlines. The weight bearing prints provide an indelible record of the mechanical presentation of the soles of the feet. A full evaluation of the feet is conducted at this time.
The lastmaking process begins, which entails the creation of a wooden three-dimensional form over which the shoes will be made. The Oliver Moore last incorporates not only the dimensions to fit the feet but instructs the shoemaker to build a shoe that serves the feet. This remains an Oliver Moore hallmark not typically found in other bespoke footwear. Fitting shoes are created during this process
The customer is called to return to the shop where a test shoe is fitted to their feet. Information from this test shoe allows us to further perfect the customer's last. Oliver Moore bespoke lasts uniquely serve each individual and the customer's input is sought at this time. Final decisions are made
Modeling, clicking and closing
The last then proceeds to the pattern table where the unique style of the shoe is expressed to the shape of the last. Upon the creation of a final detail pattern, it is time to cut the leathers. The leathers are clicked to the patterns and then closed to produce a completed upper.
The work proceeds to the table of an Oliver Moore master shoemaker who typically has more than 30 years experience of building bespoke shoes(some as many as 50 years). The master shoemaker unites all of the elements necessary to create the Oliver Moore shoe. Excellence in apperance. Comfort in wearing.
The moment when a new Oliver Moore customer receives their first pair of shoes is typically one of excitement, enlightenment, and joy.